Posted By: Christopher Musial on February 25, 2010
If a doorbell or chime stops sounding, begin by checking the service panel to see if the circuit breaker has tripped or the fuse has blown. If this is the case, other lights and receptacles on the same circuit will also be dead. If the doorbell is getting power, inspect and test the button. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on December 2, 2009
Sometimes you may need to sand or plane down a door if the door is too tight in its frame or if it rubs against newly installed carpeting. Reducing the surface of a door is not difficult but it can be an awkward task. If possible, work with the door while it's still on its hinges. But if you need to get at the hinge side or bottom of the door then you will have to remove it. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on December 1, 2009
Shimming out a hinge. If the door is warped at the bottom or if the hinge is set too deeply in the frame so as to cause the door to bind, you can shim the hinge. What you should do first is to support the door by pushing some pieces of wood, books or other objects under the bottom edge at two points so it will not move once the hinge is disengaged... [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 30, 2009
Some door problems take a good deal of time to fix even if they do not seem major. If the door itself is twisted or warped or if the door is structurally unsound, the best solution usually is to install a new one and often a new prehung door frame as well. This often requires advanced carpentry skills for which you may choose to hire an expert. But there are some minor door repairs that most homeowners can do themselves. And that's what we'll tackle today and in our next blog posts. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 27, 2009
If a door doesn't close all the way, sticks or doesn't latch properly, the problem could come from a variety of sources: the door itself, a hinge, the jamb, the stop, the strike plate or the latch. Even if you do not plan on repairing it yourself, with a few simple tests you can determine the cause of the problem which will help you get a fair price for repairs. Some repairs can be handled easily without taking off the door, making it even simpler for a first time do-it-yourselfer. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 26, 2009
Doors come in three basic types: solid-wood, solid-core and hollow-core. Substantially older houses typically have solid doors hung in frames constructed on site. While doors in newer houses and replacement-doors units are more likely to be of the solid-core prehung variety, which means that they probably were constructed of veneer over an insulating core of some sort and were factory made as a matched set. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 25, 2009
If a channel guide or slide tab is broken, you may or may not be able to get replacement parts, depending on the manufacturer. Start your search with the installer if you know them. If the manufacturer's name appears on the unit then call hardware stores or storm window installers and ask if they have parts and if they can install them. Otherwise, take the broken part to the store to see if they have a match. They should be able to install the parts at minimal cost or else show you how to put them in yourself.
[...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 24, 2009
Some windows combine three functions in one. That is, they perform as ordinary glazed windows but they also have permanent storm and screen sections that can be slid into place in season. Typically framed in aluminum, combination windows have three channels running along each side of the frame to hold two glass sashes and one screen sash. The three channels are staggered to make three openings of slightly different sizes, each of the three sashes thus fits in one and only one of the channels. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 23, 2009
These days, screens may be made of metal, plastic or fiberglass and each requiring different repair materials and techniques. Inspect the material itself for tears or holes. To repair gnat-sized holes in metal screens, use tweezers to straighten the rigid strands of broken wire and dab a bit of clear silicone adhesive, clear fingernail polish or quick-drying adhesive on the spot until a thin film forms. For larger holes, cut away any damaged wire that remains in the hole. Patch with a compatible metal screen patch which are available at hardware stores. Or you can also make a patch from a leftover screen. Select a rectangular piece about 2 inches larger than the hole in all directions. Pull away the outside wires on the edges of the patch to make a 1/2-inch fringe of wire on each side. Bend the fringe wires on each side over a block of wood to make sharp right angles around the patch. Position the patch over the hole, threading the wire through the screen mesh until the patch lies flat on the screen. Working from the other side of the screen, use tweezers to fold the fringes over to hold the patch in place. Secure the edges with adhesive or clear nail polish. [...]
Read More
Posted By: Christopher Musial on November 20, 2009
To reduce heat loss in winter, storm windows are the old-fashioned way. There are two basic types of storm windows. Add-on storm windows fill the entire outside of the window and must be hung in place seasonally on hardware affixed to the exterior window frame. Combination storms remain in the window frame all year round along with a half-sized screen panel. Because storm windows must be changed seasonally, must take heavy weather and are often rather flimsily made, they need periodic maintenance. [...]
Read More
Next Page »